Updates

NEW UPDATES CAMINO HANDBOOK: A COMPOSTELA AD 1805 !!

2011-08-06T19:37:00.006+02:00

The most recent updates of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela Ultimate Handbook (New Orleans: University Press of the South, 220 pp) have been placed on this website, as well as under UPDATES on the jackdegroot com website. These updates date back to June and July 2011.

A small hick up prevents Jack de Groot from returning to the caminos this summer. In June 2011 he broke his ankle two times in Asturias, close to the small village of Pajares. After a caring treatment in Hospital Victor Alvarez Buylla in Mieres he returned home with the help of Iberia.

His recovery will take a few months. He will be back on the road in November 2011.

Seen in a second hand bookshop in SDC.
It is not for sale, because it is dated 1805.
(Better to donate it to the newly built Pilgrim Museum?)

2011-07-05T12:20:00.054+02:00

* VIA DE LA PLATA
* RUTA DEL SALVADOR
* CAMINO FRANCES
* CAMINO DEL NORTE
* CAMINO INGLES
APRIL - MAY - JUNE 2011

UPDATES BY INGE AND
EUGENE CARROLL (Members of the Support
Team of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela Ultimate Handbook)

More info: http://www.jackdegroot.com/

DAY 1 – 27th April. Denmark – Sevilla

Our flight to London is on time. At Stansted Airport we have plenty of time to buy our last bits and pieces. The flight to Sevilla is a bit early and with a good bus connection to the city centre and some help from a woman we get to listen to the radio commentary of the Real Madrid vs Barça game. We find the Living Roof Hostal easily enough, book in and get to watch most of the second half of the game in El Arco next door over beer, wine and tapas. Not a bad way to arrive in Spain. After a short paseo we turn in for a decent night’s sleep.

DAY 2 – 28th April. Sevilla – Guillena (20 kms)

We eat the breakfast (BK) provided by the hostal and chat to a dentist who works with MSF (?). Then we go across to the cathedral where we are again amazed at the size and magnificence of the place. After getting sellos we take a bus to Santiponce so that we avoid the industrial estates. There we get some lunch at a cafe, where the owner gives us free salsa in jars to take with us. At last we can begin to walk. We pass the Roman ruins and it is hot enough to put on sun screen. It is not far to Guillena but we arrive to find the Albergue is full. We go to the Hostal Francés – also full - however the owner offers us a room in her father’s house. We accept, and he comes to collect us in his car although it is not far. The place is spotless and after a shower we walk to the Hostal for what turns out to be an excellent menú del día (MdD). When we get back the old chap shows us a sample of family/local photos. We sleep well in this quiet house.

DAY 3 – 29th April. Guillena – Castilblanco (21 kms)

We get our BK at the hostal and then find our way out of town on the way to Venta. It is a beautiful walk through a nature park with meadows full for spring flowers. It is a cloudy day but no rain. We seem to make quick progress and get to Castilblanco about noon and already the Albergue is nearly full. We get showers and sorted out and have a sleep. In the evening we go out and the rain pours down so that everyone has to stand in shelter. We do our shopping, including sticks, and go for a MdD in the place across from the albergue. We get charged extra for the wine so feel a bit ripped off. When we get back the place is full with some cyclists sleeping in the lobby. We get an early night as it is a long walk tomorrow.

DAY 4 – 30th April. Castilblanco – Almadén (30)

We are awoken early by pilgrims who are in a bed race. We stay in our beds until they have gone. We have some BK at the albergue and a coffee at the only bar which is open – the last as you leave town. It is still dark as we begin to walk. We get a bit of rain as we go through the park and see the pigs roaming about. The rivers are flooded and we cross on the stones by holding hands. When we get to the alto no one stops as the weather is poor and nothing can be seen anyway. We get into Almadén and get beds although there are a lot of pilgrims. After a lukewarm shower we buy stuff and talk to a Canadian couple at the shops. We go out for a MdD at the Casa Concho which is good and watch La Liga games there. It is a pleasant evening when we walk back – the children out playing.

Inge and Eugene on the stairs of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela

DAY 5 – 1st May. Castilblanco – DAY OFF

Today our sehedule comes off the rails. As I pack my rucksack I realise that the bag with my glasses, phone chargers and contact lens is missing. On reflection I am positive that I have left it in the albergue in Castilblanco. After a bit of running about town we get a taxi back to the albergue. But nothing seems to work. It does not help that it is the Sunday on a Spanish Holiday long weekend. The hospitalera never shows up, the cleaners look around and the key holder cannot help. We decide to stay put and go into town and get excellent food and wine at the Plaza Taberna. We walk around a few tapas places and then back to bed and hope for a better day tomorrow.

DAY 6 – 2nd May. Castilblanco – Sevilla – Zafra (Bus)

Over a great BK in the Cafe Isadora we decide to get a bus to Sevilla and then to Zafra on the basis that the opticians will be open in Zafra on Tuesday morning. We catch the 09.30 bus to Sevilla and then the 13.00 bus to Zafra. (We stop for a coffee to get out of the rain at the Resturant Gadi, Plaza España. We ask for 2 coffees and the waiter asks us if we would like small picos – we accept. We are presented with something closer to a sandwich and a bill for €14.20). We buy a new phone charger in Sevilla so at least our phones will work. In Zafra the albergue is full so we get a decent room in the Hostal Arais on the main road. We eat at the hostal, where the wine is really good and then to bed.

DAY 7 – 3rd MAY. Zafra – DAY OFF

The hostal does a good BK. We shop around Zafra and eventually find an optician (UniOptica) who can make me a new pair of glasses in the same day. So far so good. We go back for our packs and book into the albergue. After the internet we have a tasty MdD in the restaurant of Hotel Las Palmeras – good value for the quality of the food and wine. After a sleep we shop (watch out for the Alimentacion Hermanas Berciano Plaza Grande 13 who like to overcharge pilgrims – even for water) and then out to watch the big game We go to the Bar Bivea and get a good seat – no problem as we are the only customers. Barça go through. We are both looking forward to getting back to walking tomorrow after this interruption.

DAY 8 – 4th MAY. Zafra – Villafranca (21)

We awake to a blue sky and after our BK provided by the Turismo we get going. Have a coffee in the first town, Los Santos, and then walk directly to Villafranca. We have pre-booked the Casa Perín and are pleased to get a top room. The owner remembers us and is pleased to recommend a good restaurant. We go to the Los Gemelos, C/Solis Carrasco 1, and we are not disappointed with the food or the price. Back for a sleep. We go out to watch football in a local bar where we are plied with generous tapas. We move to another bar where the same thing happens. Very nice but there is only so much that even a pilgrim can eat. Back to the Perín to pack and get ready for the next day. Weather is good – sunny but not blistering hot.

DAY 9 – 5th MAY. Villafranca – Torremegia (28)

Up early and out the door a 7 am. .A clear sky and we make good time in the early morning. There are no bars so we have our breaks by the track. In Torremegia we book into the Turismo. Good place. We get showered and have a sleep. Then out for coffee and to buys things. We eat at Albergue Rojo Plata and get a good meal (no chips for a change). We get the first half of the football after the bullfighting is finished. Talk for a while to John from Sydney and then back to the Turismo. I watch the second half of the game in the “lounge” and then bed.

DAY 10 – 6th May. Torremegia – Mérida (16)

Early start and we leave quickly for the short walk to Mérida – we have things to see. It is a cool morning as we get on the tracks with plenty of other pilgrims on the way. Unbelievable sunrise. We are surprised to see that the albergue has been refurbished and looking smart with a new kitchen. We get our showers and out to see the sights. The weather is pleasant and we go to the Roman Museum which is very interesting. Then the Bar Europa for a tinto and excellent wine. Sleep in the Albergue – which is now full. In the evening we paseo around, get a glass of wine and then back to bed.

Mérida

DAY 11 – 7th MAY. Mérida – Aljucén (18)

We are up very early because of the noise from the bed racers. We get some BK at the albergue and walk out on the road from Mérida. We take a break at the lake and are pleased that the rain stays away until we reach the albergue in Alcujén – just after 10 am! It does not open until 12 so we get coffee in the bar. When it opens we get a quiet room at the back and the “shouting men” all go in together. Showers and so on, and we get to the shop before it closes. Then the Bar Sergio for an unusual MdD. The lady owner makes the place and it seems she was some kind of celebrity in her younger days. We get back and have a long sleep. In the evening we watch a bit of football in the other bar and after a wine go back to bed.

DAY 12 – 8th MAY. Aljucén – Alcuéscar (24)

We get an early start and after BK get onto the track out of town. We have a lovely walk through a National Park in beautiful weather. We arrive early at the Hermanos Esclavos de Maria y de los Pobres and this time are allocated beds in the dormitory. We get showers and then have a few drinks before a siesta during the quiet period in the afternoon. We get the Man Ud vs Chelsea game in the bar but in the confusion miss the Pilgrim mass. There are 37 pilgrims for the evening meal which is very good. Everyone joins in the washing up – well nearly everyone. After a glass of wine - bed. I have the man from the Exorcist on the top bunk and he spins like a top. Still I sleep well enough.

DAY 13 – 9th MAY. Alcuéscar – Casar de Cáceres (20)

We are up early enough and get a good BK in the bar next door. After running about we find the right bus stop as we do not want to sleep in the run down changing rooms in Valdesalor. In Cáceres we buy a few things as we walk through.

The entrance to Cáceres, not much glamour!

On the way out of the city we have a lunch break in the last bar which is always very good. Get more water for a hot afternoon. The only shade is under a road bridge. In Casar we get into the albergue which is already pretty full. Get a good MdD in the Resto opposite – then a sleep. In the evening we get tapas and drinks, buy stuff for the next day and visit the church. This is a nice little town – the chemist gives us free stuff. Casar appears to have more than its fair share of people who are bonkers ... they were all here last year and are a part of the community.

DAY 14 – 10th MAY. Casar de Cáceres. – Alcántara (21)

Very early start and we go to the new bar for coffee. Although advertised to be open it is closed. We walk on in the dark. When it gets light we stop for a decent break on one of the whalebacks. It is already hot. Another great walk along the goat tracks and then the road for the last 5 kms. We get to the albergue about 11 and wait with others to get in at 12 noon. The hospitalero arrives early but asks us to wait as he has some cleaning up. He gives everyone a complimentary coffee. He keeps popping out for a cigarette always reassuring the group that he will open in 5 or 10 minutes. This goes on until after one o'clock and he is trying the patience of some of the pilgrims. We get in, and get sorted out. Get our clothes washed in the machine and use the Internet. Get something to eat – then sleep. In the evening get a meal and relax and look at the view of the lake.....well there is not anything else to look at in this remote albergue. However it is a good place.

DAY 15 – 11th MAY. Alcántara – Grimaldo (20)

We take the BK that is provided at the albergue. The weather is great and we have a good walk to Canaveral through open high ground. We have a break with other pilgrims at Ermita de San Cristobal and then walk up the hill and press on to Grimaldo. At the albergue we get the last 2 beds. Get a good MdD in the Asador Grimaldo across the road – excellent value and food. Back to the albergue for a sleep and afterwards a walk around before watching the Barça game. Leave at half time to pack and get ready for another day.

DAY 16 - 12th MAY. Grimaldo – Galisteo (21)

We get a bit of a lie in, and I have suffered from a lot of muck bites. We have BK in the bar next door and buy a bocadillo for later on. Again we walk out into a beautiful day through amazing nature and scenery. After a break we walk to the canal and notice that a group of walkers and cyclists have gone the wrong way. I run after them and bring them back to the track and all walk to Galisteo together. It is hot, so we get a cold drink when we arrive in the town. We decide to stay and go to the Rusticana but find it has closed down. We ask around and find the new albergue which is very good – everything new and very clean. Go back to the Resto for more cold drinks and a good MdD. We meet an Icelandic cyclist that we had met last year on the VdlP and we have a drink together, then we take a walk on the town walls before heading back to our beds.

DAY 17 – 13th MAY. Galisteo – Cáparra (30)

We are up early as most people want to walk before it gets too hot. We have a great walk to Carcaboso and a top BK in the Gonolderías. We meet up a Dutch pilgrim that we recognise and tell him he is walking in the wrong direction – which he is. He decides also to stop for a break. We have a very good walk to Cáparra where 9 pilgrims are waiting for the 4pm lift to the Hostal Asturias. A people carrier arrives at 4.30 and somehow manages to get us all in with our rucksacks. Our room is fine and we need cold drinks after the hot day. Then a good meal in the evening and bed.

Cáparra

DAY 18 – 14th MAY. Cáparra – Baños (28)

We have BK at the hostal and buy fruit for the way. The weather is fine and we have our picnic and coffee in Aldeanueva. We talk with 2 Germans about the famous fountain – which looks a bit sad. It is now very hot on the road to Baños and we stop to feed biscuits to a dog. In Baños the albergue does not open until 4 pm so we leave our rucksacks there and go for a meal in La Peña which still serves excellent cauliflower and fish. We have a coffee in the bar to shelter from the rain and then into the Albergue at 4 pm. Get washed up and have a lie down. In the evening walk around Baños, get stuff from the shops and after a couple of drinks get ourselves to bed. Longish day tomorrow.

DAY 19 – 15th MAY. Baños – Fuenterroble (30)

After a noisy night because of a fiesta in the town we get an early start up the hill. The wind makes us feel cold so we wrap up well in the early morning, It is not long before the sun is up, there is blue sky and we enjoy the walk to Calzada. The albergue and the bar are both closed so we have a break in the front of the albergue. We walk on through gentle countryside and have a good lunch in Hogar del Pensionistas in Valverde where we meet Lucas the bar dog. We press on in the wind and get into the albergue. There are many pilgrims here and we are concerned about sleeping in San Pedro tomorrow where there are not that many beds. The shop opens for pilgrims to get things. We do not enjoy our meal in the El Pesebre. The lady takes ages to serve everyone and this spoils the meal. She recognises us and Inge gets an ice cream. We watch a bit of footie, talk to a Maltese pilgrim and then back to bed.

DAY 20 – 16th MAY. Fuenterroble – San Pedro (28)

Up early as everyone is on the move. We get BK at the albergue and give some biscuits to the donkey on the way out of town. It feels cold although the sun is shining. We make good time to the Pico. Then the long slog past the pig farm and on to San Pedro. To our surprise a brand new private Albergue has opened – which is fully booked. We go to the old albergue and Nuria the hospitalera remembers us. She settles us into single beds, we get our showers and go to the Carmen for a good meal with well done steaks. We sleep well in the afternoon. We have a walk around the village and note the local bars have closed. We go back to the Carmen for a drink. Back at the albergue I feed a local cat until it becomes bored with me and wanders off.

DAY 21 – 17th MAY. San Pedro – Salamanca (26)

We sleep well in our single beds without any disturbance. Have some BK before we leave into another cold morning. Nothing open in the next village of Morille as we are on the longer route. On the way into Salamanca we see a decent sized snake crossing the track. We cross the Roman bridge and enter the city proper. We go to the Albergue Juvenil Youth Hostal and book in there. This is a good place with a washing machine/dryer. We get showered and get our clothes into the machine while we have excellent tapas in the corner bar. In the evening we do the rounds of Salamanca and eat at the Gran Mundo Chinese – great buffet meal. After a nightcap and Inge doing acrobatics to close a window - we get to bed.

Salamanca

DAY 22 – 18th MAY. Salamanca – DAY OFF

This is our day off so we let all the others leave before we get up and have vanity showers. Back to the corner bar for a great BK – with honey – at a very reasonable price. We go to the fantastic biblioteca for Internet. La Rápida for new (leather) insoles. Then the cathedral and the Civil War Museum. We drop our packs at the albergue and do a bit of shopping. We have an average MdD in a touristy place and then back for a sleep at the albergue which reopens at 4 pm. In the evening we go for tapas and drinks and I stay on to talk with a Dutch cyclist. Heavy rain on the way back. Miss the footie as we have to be back by 10 pm.

DAY 23 – 19th MAY. Salamanca – El Cubo de Tierra (22)

No rush to get up as we plan to take a taxi out of the city. We talk to the hospitalero – who is very helpful and show him our book entries from two previous stays (one by Daniel). I get a new handle for my stick and we get a top BK for €7. Chat to a German who is there on a 10-week language course and living on a camp site. Hmmmmm. We get our taxi and then start walking. We phone my sister and sing Happy Birthday to her. This is not the prettiest part of the VdlP as we slog past La Tosca Prisón – still the rains hold off and we get into the albergue in El Cubo just before it is full up. The hospitalero, Filipe, is good fun and washes all our clothes for €2. We go out to find the local shop is not much use. We have a really good MdD for €16 with coffee in the Santo Domingo. We get a nightcap in the other bar and decide EL Cubo is a nice place before we go to bed.

DAY 24 – 20th MAY. El Cubo – Villanueva (14)

We are wakened early by Felipe and the other pilgrims. We pay €2 for the BK and leave into a misty morning. The sun burns off the mist but not before we are covered in a fine coating of dew. Natural spa. At a break at the high point we walk into Villanueva and the albergue. Go to the Bar Jambarina to register and have a coffee. We get showered and return for a decent MdD. It is very hot in the afternoon so we sleep. We walk around in the evening and find the Albergue Municipal – which we thought was a private concern. Confusion reigns. We sit in the shade and have a drink, talk to a Dutch pilgrim and then go to bed.

DAY 25 – 21st MAY. Villanueva – Zamora (19)

We are awoken by the German girls packing up. We have some BK and leave before them. The are no bars open until Zamora so we enjoy the walk through rolling countryside in a clear morning. We have a break at the monument and take some photos. When we get to Zamora we get a good BK in bar on the Plaza and I go to the Turismo to get info. At the Church of San Cipriano we get new credenciales from the woman who remembers us from last year. We get into the albergue – the hospitalera seems a bit bonkers and is overloading everyone with information. We get sorted out and go to the Horno for MdD which is one of the best ever! We sleep well after this meal. In the evening we go to the Parador and then a few other places for tapas and get back before the 10 pm deadline.

DAY 26 – 22nd MAY. Zamora – Fontanillas (30)

We say goodbye to the German girls before we leave the albergue and get dry weather on the way out of the city. We get a good BK in Roales de Pan – excellent toast and a great walk on to Montamarta. We get coffee there and more water as it is getting hot. We walk on the road until we reach the petrol station. At the Bar KM101 the owner is grumpy so we have a drink and move on. Get the key for the small albergue and we get washed up. Go back to the bar, it is the only one there, and get some food (not great but it is Sunday evening) and wine. Buy a few things from the garage and go back to the albergue. We said last year we would not stay here again and here we are!

DAY 27 – 23rd MAY. Fontanillas – Santovenia (20)

After BK we return the keys for the albergue and head out of town. In Reigo del Camino we stop at the bar on the main road where we are given one slice of Bimbo and watered down coffee for €6. This is one of the worst examples of poor treatment we have come across. This is a place to be avoided at all costs. We walk on to Granja where we get a decent cup of coffee. We walk to Santovenia and get a good room at the Hostal Elsa, which along with our meal, which is great and our drinks is good value at €58 all in. After a sleep we walk around to get stuff from the shop and the place is in a bad way. A constant stream of heavy lorries on the road. In the evening we chat and have drinks and tapas with a Dutch couple which is nice.

Pilgrims discuss the events of the day.

DAY 28 – 24th MAY. Santovenia – Benavente (21)

We get a lovely clear morning for walking and get on the tracks. There is nothing open until we get to Barcial. The third bar on the main road is the only one open where we enjoy the toast so much we have a second helping. By finding this place we have missed our turn off and end up taking the longer and not so pleasant route into Benavente walking through industrial estates. On top of this we manage to walk the long way around to the albergue where the cleaner kindly gives us the key. We have things to do so we go to the Turismo to sign in, the Post Office, get a new phone charger, the chemist and then the brilliant La Pote for and excellent MdD. Back at the Albergue we enjoy the cold showers and rest. In the evening we buy food and wander around the church then the biblioteca and then back for a beer and a chat with John from Ireland before the rain starts.

DAY 29 – 25th MAY. Benavente – La Bañeza (30)

We do not get up as early as we expected. We chat with John over BK and say goodbye to the Dutch couple. We walk out of town on the road in a fresh morning. After a few kms we see a large black dog running on the opposite side of the road. Suddenly it crosses the road towards us and begins - what we take to be an attack. We hold it off with our sticks and loud shouts until it backs away. A bad experience but no one got hurt including the dog who seems to have broken free from being tied up. We walk of the road to Villabrázaro. We are disappointed to find the bar at the village is closed as we had really good food there last year. We have a break in the square where Inge shouts at a man who is kicking a dog. Must be a dog day. We walk on to Castroponce where the bar is closed but we get drinks from the shop. In Alija we meet up with John and have a break together. We have had enough for one day so we get the 2 pm bus to La Bañeza and into the albergue. Out for a meal in the Hospitelada after our shower and then back for a sleep on the hospital beds. Wash our clothes in the machine and go out for a while. When we get back John from Ireland is there so we have a beer and a chat before turning in for the night.

DAY 30 – 26th MAY. La Bañeza – Astorga (25)

After another early start we walk into a crisp morning and on to the tracks – it is good to be off the road. There is nothing open in Palacios so we take our break on the track. Nothing about until we reach Celada. We ask a man with an energetic dog for the bar. He starts to give us directions but the dog literally pulls him off his feet. We have to wait to laugh. Get a break at the excellent Mesón and then the short walk into Astorga. We get a 2 person room our clothes washed and go with John to the El Salvador for MdD – which is a bit below their average. We sleep in the afternoon and go with John for tapas and a walk round. Arrange to stay for a second day with the very helpful Hungarian hospitalera.

Towards Astorga

DAY 31 – 27th MAY. Astorga – DAY OFF

We can relax on our day of and we get to keep our beds in the 2-person room. Get a good BK in a new bar just of the plaza, go to the Post Office, cathedral, and try some Japanese tea. There are lots of pilgrims here. We buy bits and pieces and then back for a shower. We go out for our meal in a local resto just at the back of the Plaza – only locals here so we get good food/wine. Back for a sleep and in the evening paseo with John. Then back for wine and tapas and camino talk as we say goodbye in the morning. Nice day off.

An albergue, early in the morning. The hospitalero's daily job has to be done!

CAMINO FRANCES

DAY 32 – 28^th MAY. Astorga – Hospital de Orbigo (to León by bus) (21)

We have a good BK at the new cafe – probably too much to eat. A beautiful morning as we make our way out of town and across the footbridge through San Justo and up the hill we usually walk down. Regreso. We have never tried this before and already we are amazed at the number of pilgrims coming towards us. Inge is counting as I gave up after 50. It makes it easy to find our way. We stop for coffee and a chat with a lovely French woman (there is a Dane drinking in the bar and it is 10.30). We have had enough of walking “backwards” already and by the time we get to Hospital de Orbigo the count is 250 in 3 hours or so. We go for the bus to León after buying a bag of cherries. Walk over the river to the excellent albergue, get washed up and out to the Nidal for a good value MdD. Back for a lie down and then we go into the City to check out Jack de Groot’s website for information on the Ruta Salvador. Everything is closed and we head back to find a good bar to watch the Barça/Man Utd CL Final. End up back at the Nidal for the first half and go to another bar for the second half – Barça win easily ... people here are happy with that result. Back for a sleep.

CAMINO SAN SALVADOR

DAY 33 – 29^th MAY. Leon – La Robla (23)

We walk into the centre on a very pleasant morning only to find that there is no No 12 bus out of the City. So we go to the Casa and get a good BK and talk with a young Australian couple. They ask to take our photo! Go to the cathedral and witness a surge of people involved in some festival or other. Decide to leave them to it. Get into the Turismo and get info and then take a taxi 8 kms out of town to a place where we get a coffee. Then we start our walk on the Ruta Salvador. On the tracks the way is undulating but really beautiful. There are no bars until Cascarates. Here we get royal treatment with excellent tapas, drinks badges and a warm welcome. We are enjoying this camino already. In La Robla we find the Hostal Mundo which is OK but pricey where we get showered. Sunday night and we cannot find anywhere for a MdD. We get a pizza and wine and after a drink in the bar next door then back to the hostal. I meet another pilgrim in the other hostal and he seems to have a much better deal than ourselves. Ho ho ho.

DAY 34 – 30^th MAY. La Robla – Pola de Gordón (15)

Up and out of the hostal and get a good BK in the cafe next door. We have lost a bit of confidence in the CSJ guide after yesterday. We have a good walk to Pola de Gordón – taking a break at the cafe by the church. The Turismo is very helpful with information and we decide to stay here for the night. We book into the Hostal Fontanán and after showers go to the Mesón Miguel in the centre of town and get a good MdD in the upstairs resto (the beef /wine are excellent). Go back for a long sleep. In the evening we get the internet at the biblioteca and do the rounds for tapas. It is raining as we make our way back to the hostal – where we pack for tomorrow morning.

The Salvador Route is pretty well indicated. Here in the Province of León.

DAY 35 – 31st MAY. Pola de Gordón – Poladura de la Tercia (15)

We have a bit of a lie in and ignore the 06.30 alarm. Eventually leave at 08.30 and the weather is good enough for us to walk the tracks. Part road as we walk into Buiza. We pass the albergue which is closed (too early) and there is no bar so we get a break on the track. We walk up the valley and the weather closes in. We see the semi wild horses and the going on the track gets rougher and steeper. The views are unbelievable with meadows full of wild spring flowers. We reach the alto and then down a steep track and then on to a narrow path along the side of the mountain. We pass more wild horses. We make our way along the side of the cliff admiring the scenery but being careful not to fall. After a break in a rock shelter we cross rough ground and eventually find our way to Poladura. The hospitalero is waiting for us and settles us in. We go to the Casa and buy food and wine. Back at the Albergue we get showers and eat our meal – which is surprisingly good. That evening we go back to the Casa, have a drink and buy things for the next day. We go back. It is cold here at night in the Picos however there is heating and plenty of blankets.

The Albergue de La Robla

DAY 36 – 1^st JUNE. Poladura – Payares (19)

We eat something before we leave the Albergue. As we leave the village a posse of barking dogs provides an escort. We go straight up on the track and are soon walking through a very remote nature area – there is no sign of humanity here and this is probably as close to nature as you can get in Europe. We follow the track – this time the CSJ guide is very useful. The wild horses keep an eye on us. After the alto we walk another track to a second alto where the mountain flowers are in spectacular bloom ... the place is like paradise. All around us is nature at its most powerful with unspoilt mountains and ground. We get lost ... and eventually get back on track and then down to the road where the church and the Mesón are closed. We expected that. We talk to a Spanish pilgrim who is taking the road route. On we go past the closed down Parador and into the bar at the summit. We enjoy our coffee and bocadillos. Afterwards we go over another alto on the road - again with the most splendid views across the mountain ranges. We descend into Payares and find the albergue in the middle of the village. The first thing we notice is that people are smoking ... although it is banned. Anyway we do not create a fuss, get beds, showers and the ladies do us a reasonable MdD. We are not completely surprised when we meet up with Jack as we knew he was around here somewhere. We have a lot to chat about. After dinner we get some beers and wine and chat more and swap news. The ladies supply us with proper beer. This Albergue is unique – there is even a hair dressing salon! But it is good for pilgrims and locals to share and the hospitalera makes sure of that. Bed a bit later than usual.

DAY 37 – 2nd JUNE. Payares – La Pola (27)

We are up at a reasonable time and get coffee from the machine. See Jack before we leave and agree to meet up in La Pola. We miss our turn of and stay on the road until we get a marker up to the right at the viewing point. We are on the winter track and it proves to be tough going in the summer. The track is muddy and steep – and dangerous. We have soft falls in the mud on the descent. We take a break at the main road and decide to stay on it for our safety. In the next town we stop for coffee and rolls. We get to La Pola sooner than we expect and Roberto sorts us out in one of the cleanest Albergues we have ever stayed in. We get a good sort out. Fernando’s news about Jack falling is a shock and we try to reach him by text message. We wait but no reply. He is in Hospital so his mobile is switched off. Fernando joins us for MdD in a local Sidrería – El Lleron where we try the high pour cider but quickly go back to wine. We get back and all sleep well in this top place.

The (good) albergue of Pajares (Asturias).

Three pilgrims are having dinner: an unknown man, Jack and Fernando.

DAY 38 – 3rd JUNE. La Pola – Oviedo (27)

We do not get up that early – get packed and say goodbye to Fernando. We find the Cafe La Vienna and have a good BK. The owner is good fun and we buy biscuits from her. Out of the town and on to a narrow and sometimes busy road. This is not good walking as we are alert for traffic. We get a coffee in a bar and then on to Uji and the Camino Colesterol by the riverside. We follow this all the way to Mieres. We take a train into Oviedo and set about doing our bits and pieces. My replacement lens have arrived at the Correos – good news. The Albergue does not open until 5 pm so we look around for a Hostal. The ones we look at are expensive (there is a fiesta on at the moment) and not very good. So, we get a good MdD in the El Hierro near the Albergue and then wait of it to open at 5 pm. There are quite a few pilgrims and it looks full as soon as it opens. Not the greatest place but we get sorted out and showered and then out to look at the fiesta, the Cathedral, tapas and shopping for next day. Back at the Albergue I share a beer with Fernando before turning in for the night..

CAMINO del NORTE

DAY 39 – 4th JUNE. Oviedo – Aviles (8) + (Train)

It is lovely weather as we walk out of the city with the help of arrows, the Police and Pablo, returning home from the fiesta. All of their efforts are in vain - after 4 kms we realize we are on the Primitivo – wrong camino. We have done it again. We walk back to the railway station and get something to eat in the cafe Santa Catalina across the road. We have already had enough and I go and buy 2 train tickets to Avilés. In Avilés we go to the Turismo who are very helpful and we walk to the Albergue. We have been here before although we have forgotten. A woman fingers the hospitalero and he lets us in to drop off our packs. It is still early so Inge looks around the shops while I do bits and pieces. We meet up later go back for showers and a big wash of clothes. We walk through the old part off the town which is very well preserved and find a nice looking resto near the park – where we get a good MdD – very attentive service. Go back for a sleep. Later on we visit the church – we know a lot about churches now that the football is finished for the season. After a round of tapas we go back to pack and agree to take the FEVE, with a Dutch Pilgrim out of Avilés and walk to Soto de Luina. Well that is the plan.

Main Street Oviedo.

DAY 40 – 5^th JUNE. Aviles – Soto de Luina (28)

We leave with Josephine and get to the RW Station. We have time for a coffee and then we get the train to Soto del Barco. We find the camino without any problem and Josephine walks ahead. In Muros de Nalón we stop at the El Parador where we stayed with Pepe the dog in the apartments. We get a really good BK and talk to the owners about their planned holiday in Scotland. We catch up with Josephine at the petrol station and walk into Soto along the tracks. Book into the Albergue, showers and a wash up and go to the hotel across from the albergue for the €10 MdD which is very good value. Inge stays on to watch tennis – I go back to sleep. Later on we go for paseo and tapas and then an early night.

DAY 41 – 6^th JUNE. Soto – Luarca (27)

It is raining as we leave and rains all the way to Novelena – where we all stop to dry out and get something to eat. We walk on and the rain pours down. We get to Casa Fernando in Botelle. Enough is enough. We get a taxi to Luarca and into the Pension Moderna. The same lady runs the place and is very pleased we are back. We all get a chance to dry out and have a shower. We then go to the Noyen at the harbour for a meal – good food. Back to sleep. We get tapas in the evening and enjoy the La Troya. Inge goes back and I have a nightcap in the rough bar over the bridge.

DAY 42 – 7^th JUNE. Luarca – Navia (20)

It is not raining – great news after the soaking we got yesterday. We leave the quaint Pension Moderna and return to La Troya for BK. We get Leonard Cohen, honey and a top BK – one of the best. We meet Ian and Pat from Australia. We walk out along minor roads and stop at the new hotel – Rio Mayor for a coffee. Pass the Albergue in Pinera, which is closed. Then onto the minor road all the way to Navia. We both like Navia and are pleased to be back. We book into the Cantábrico and are pleased to see that it has been refurbished. We get a good room for only €30. Shower and get a MdD (great fish) in the place next door – The Australians are also there. We sleep, then groom and go for coffee where we chat to the Australians. In the evening we go for paseo and get tapas in the old bar. Inge goes back and I find the Italy vs Ireland game. Ireland surprisingly win 0-2 so I go to bed happy.

DAY 43 – 8^th JUNE. Navia – Tapia (20)

We get our BK in the old bar on the corner – which is very good incl. honey. We walk up out on the town on a bright clear day. We take a couple of breaks and as we pass through La Cariadad recall the Albergue which is undergoing refurbishment. We walk the road for a while and clouds come in however we get to Tapia before any rain. Leave our stuff in the Albergue and go to the Casa Cultural to sign in and pay. Next we go to the Mesón El Puerto and get a top meal (warm bread) – very reasonable. Back for our showers and wash clothes. We go to sleep but are awoken by German Pilgrims. We go to the beach and watch the big waves come in to the shore. We go out to buy things and get tapas – no Internet as there is a course running. Inge goes to bed and I go out to watch the waves – a small crowd has gathered. I get a drink in the Australian Bar – out of curiosity and have good fun with the locals. Make an exit before he can buy me a drink.

DAY 44 – 9^th JUNE. Tapia - Ribadeo (17)

Again we get something to eat before we leave. Find our way out of Tapia on the road and then on to the main road. It looks like rain. We walk to the service station at Barres and get a good BK there (top orange juice). Outside we look for the arrows that will take us across the big bridge. We find a route and it is not long before we are in Ribadeo. The cleaner lets us in and we get showers and wash clothes. We walk into town and get MdD at Ros Mary – which is a bit disappointing and average. Also we pay extra for water. After a lie down we go back into town and Inge buys shoes and we get some presents from the olive oil shop. We do some shopping and go back to sign in and pay. Then we get tapas around the port area and back to bed.

A bar. The pilgrims's office. Food: average.

DAY 45 – 10^th JUNE. Ribadeo – Lourenzá (30)

Pilgrims are up early and we are out by 6.30. We are behind a large group of Germans who we lose when they go for coffee. We walk out with one, Herman who is carrying his shopping with him. The going is good but tougher than we recall. There are no bars so we have a break in A Ponte. We get a Bar after Gontan and enjoy our coffee. Walk up the hill and then the descent into Lourenza. After showers we go to the Rego for an €8 Menu. It is good food but the service is bad. We get back for a sleep. Later on we get the internet, tapas and paseo. Again this Albergue is nearly full.

DAY 46 – 11^th JUNE. Lourenzá – Abidan (28)

We get something before we leave. The weather is good as we climb out of town on the way to Mondanedo. We look around for a cafe while we wait for the post office to open. We get a top BK in the O Rei das Tartas opposite the cathedral. I send our stuff to SDC and we light candles for Eva in the cathedral. We walk up the hill and along the side of the valley – with excellent views. From Lonsada the going gets tougher with a diversion caused by the new motorway. After a tough walk we get into the new and spotlessly clean Albergue in Abadín. After a shower we eat with Ian and Pat a great MdD in the Bar across the road. Next we sleep. Later we walk up the hill to the supermercado and get tapas in the bars. I get a nightcap in the bar next door. Then bed.

DAY 47 – 12^th JUNE. Abidan – Vilalba (21)

We both sleep well enough and get something before we leave. It is raining lightly and we stop at a bar on the road (with the other pilgrims for coffee). We press on through pleasant if damp countryside and have another break at the Helucta Hostal. From here it is an easy walk into Vilalba. Ian and Pat decide to stay in a hostal in town while we wait for the Albergue to open at 1pm. A bombero arrives in his fire engine and tries to open the door. Wrong key. He leaves. About 15 minutes another bombero returns and lets us all in. All this time the back door was open and people had gone in to use the toilet. We get showered and wash clothes. We walk into town and cannot find a menu so we go to the Laros Pios and eat raciones. We have been here before and it is to be recommended. Have a coffee on the way back and find a place to eat BK tomorrow. Buy something for the evening as we do not want to come into the town again. The sun comes out. In the evening stay in the Albergue and drink wine and chat to the French couple. Then bed.

DAY 48 – 13^th JUNE. Vilalba – Baamonde (21)

We get a good value BK in the Villa Alta and we walk down to the river in clear weather. Good walking along this path and we have a coffee break with Ian and Pat. As it is raining we hang about in the cafe. Eventually we get going into Baamonde around the new motorway diversion. Get a good room and wash clothes, shower and then walk up the road to the restaurant at the service station. We get a great MdD from the grill – well cooked and after coffee go back for a sleep. Later on we buy things from the shop, and visit Victor Castro’s house and workshop. Very interesting art work. He shows us around and we get photos taken with him. Get tapas and then back for an early night. In the morning we are not only joining the bed race for Miraz; we are determined to lead it.

The magical north of Spain. This is Galicia.

DAY 49 – 14^th JUNE. Baamonde – Miraz (16)

We are up at 6pm and first out. Up the road and onto the track which we follow all the way to the new cafe at Witerus. Very pilgrim friendly with Internet-free to pilgrims. We buy some stuff to show support. We walk on in the rain – stop at the womans place for coffee but it is not good. In Miraz the Albergue does not open until 14.30 so the waiting pilgrims go to Pilar's Bar. We eat our lunches outside and drink some wine. When we get into the Albergue we are very surprised at the major improvements that have been made by CSJ. The place is new and clean and very well equipped. After showers we chat to the English hospitaleros who are very nice and drink tea. Buy some food from them for later on. After eating we go for a paseo around the village – go to Pilar and join the other pilgrims to swop stories. We have good fun – the French couple are very funny. Back to the Albergue and after a chat we turn in for the night.

DAY 50 – 15^th JUNE. Miraz – Sobrado dos Monxes (26)

Everyone says they have slept during a quiet night. We get the BK at the Albergue which is very good – incl honey. We say our goodbyes to the hospitaleros who have been very kind to everyone. Talk amongst the pilgrims is that this is the best place where they have stayed. We walk out onto the track and the whalebacks. We get some video. We get to the old bar to find it has been refurbished – we get a coffee and talk to Ian and Pat. We walk on through a cloudy day and get to the Mesón just before 1pm. As last time we get very generous portions of good food. We cannot eat most of it and have to leave before coffee or postres. We struggle up the road and onto the track and get to Sobrado about 3.30. Get beds and showers and have a lie down. Later we out to the Internet, tapas and get some shopping. Then back to bed to get ready for Arzúa tomorrow.

DAY 51 – 16^th JUNE. Sobrado – Arzúa (24)

As our yogurts are “off” we throw them away and go to the Cafeteria Plaza for the full BK which is good value. Walk out of town and up the hill where we avoid a long variant and make good time to our first stop at the crossroads. From there we walk the road towards Arzúa and the camino francés. We get to the Albergue and there is a bit of confusion over the queue. When we get in we quickly shower and then get our clothes into the washing machine – a Swiss pilgrim sticks some of her things in with ours to save money. When all is done we go to the Venus and the same waiter gets us a great meal. Back for the sleep. In the evening we talk to the Swiss girl and a couple of English women who are doing the camino as part of a tour. We get good tapas in the bars and then back to bed. We have managed the camino francés for only one night but it is already too overcrowded.

DAY 52 – 17^th JUNE. Arzúa – Santiago (29)

We are up early and get our BK at the corner bar – up the steps which is good food and good value. Talk to Ian and Pat and exchange contacts. We walk the now familiar path towards SDC. Rain begins and we stop at the bar on the main road and talk to a Bulgarian pilgrim. She obliges by shaking her head when she means yes. The rain starts to get heavy and then very heavy. After another break at the bar by the school we go to the airport where we get a bus to SDC. Now it is raining hard. We walk to La Salle and arrive there soaking wet. They do not have our booking. We check – it is our fault as we gave the wrong dates however they fix us up with a decent room for the night. We get off our wet things and go straight out for a great MdD in the fantastic Restaurante Mazaricos. Again we cannot eat all of the food and very reasonable price. The rain has stopped when we get back to La Salle – we ask after Jack but the ladies on Reception know as much as we do. After a sleep we go into the centre, get our Compostelas, book our next night in the Hospedaje Ramos, and paseo around for tapas – which are very generous. We still have an early night.

DAY 53 – 18^th JUNE. Santiago – DAY OFF

We pack up and after showers leave La Salle (no further word of Jack). Go to the Murelles for a BK with honey. Afterwards we mouch around and drop our packs at the Ramos. Then we go into the cathedral early to get a good spot. We end up in the front row. The Mass has a high German content which ticks off non-Germans. We video the swinging. To boost our spirits we get a top lunch in the Sant Yago. We go into the Ramos next door for a sleep. Later on we go out. The Internet shop is closed down – will have to find somewhere else. I wander about and get some info for the camino inglés. We meet up again get something to eat in Taberna do Bispo (a favourite place) then tapas and go for a paseo around the city in a lovely evening. Inge goes back and I get a nightcap in the bar across the street. Then bed.

DAY 54 – 19^th JUNE. Santiago - A Coruña (Train)

We get up in time to join the other pilgrims for BK at the Parador. It is very nice but overdo the pilgrim stories with a Belgian man who it seems has been everywhere in Spain. In the end we all leave him to it. We just miss a train and wait for the next one which gets us to A Coruña before lunchtime. We book into the excellent Alborán and leave our stuff and go straight out. We get a menu at a resto behind the hostal. We manage a couple of hours and even swim when the big waves settle down. We walk in the sand which is good for our feet and after a coffee at the cafe by the football stadium where fans will be watching the second division next season, go back for a lie down. I get to the Internet and get our boarding passes – going home is now just a week away. Good to see an Email from Jack. We paseo and watch a large M15 demonstration –which we follow to the Plaza Maria Pita. Get tapas and Inge goes back. I go to a bar at the back where the floor is covered in nut shells, the wine is served in pour glasses and the place has a great atmosphere. Then back to bed.

CAMINO INGLES

DAY 55 – 20^th JUNE. A Coruña – Neda (Bus)

We get a lie in at the hostal and go to the Gasthof for a BK – good incl. honey. We check out the turismo and the weather is not good so we decide to go to the bus station. Inge gets into Zara store in its home town and I have coffee. We get the 2-pm bus to Neda and just in time to get a meal at the Mesón. It is not very good this time. We go to the Albergue where a German pilgrim lets us in. We find a washing machine and get some powder and set about our clothes. We hang around in the sunshine while our clothes dry. In the evening we go for tapas – the town is quiet and appears to be down on its luck. However we end up watching a beautiful sunset outside the local bar. Back at the Albergue I speak with a Spanish pilgrim who has 14 bananas with her – which seems rather a lot. I leave them to play cards and go to bed.

DAY 56 - 21^st JUNE. Neda – Miño (27)

We have bananas for BK. It is a lovely walk to Fene along the estuary. Stop of BK at the corner cafe in Fene. The weather is cloudy so we do not stop at the beach in Cabanas instead we have a coffee break in Pontebueme before the tough climb out of town and on to a minor road. This becomes a track along the side of the valley with good views. There is light rain as we walk on to Miño. We get our menu as soon as we reach town and then go to the Albergue where the Protection Civil book us in. After a good sleep we go into town, get internet and tapas. Back for early bed as we have a train to catch in the morning.

DAY 57 – 22^nd JUNE. Miño – Bruma (21)

We are up early to catch the commuter train to Betanzos. Here we look for a bus out to the camino but we are well out of luck. We get a good BK in the Cafe París and then go to the bar where bus tickets are sold. The owner “ organizes” a taxi for us while we have a coffee. The ride is good and we get dropped on the camino at Pescado. We walk onto the Bar Julia, the niño is still serving there, and after a break climb the hill and into the forests. The walk is longer than we recalled and we get to the Albergue after 2.30 pm. The woman remembers us and puts in our order for delivery MdD while we get a shower. The food arrives (€10) and it is very good plus wine. We cannot eat it all so leave some for a Dutch pilgrim who has just arrived. We walk upstairs and into bed for a sleep. In the evening walk into Mason for tapas and to check out buses for SDC in the morning. Then back in a taxi to the Albergue and into bed.

DAY 58 – 23rd JUNE. Bruma – Santiago (Bus)

We catch the bus from Mason on the main road after a coffee in a nearby bar. In SDC we get our parcel ( Lista de Correos) and after BK in the Rhin make our way to the Seminario. As we pre-booked we can leave our stuff. Even more important we can use the washing machine which we do. At 1.30 we go to our beds and get showers, collect our clean dry clothes and go to San Martín for a menú. It is very good food, service and wine. Well worth a visit just to sit in the dining room. We have a lie down in the afternoon. In the evening we buy presents to take home and go to the other ham bar. It is still good although quiet this evening. Inge goes back and I watch some of the fiesta before turning in myself.

A tour on the roof of the cathedral in SDC.

DAY 59 – 24^th JUNE. Santiago – Madrid – Oslo – Denmark

We notice that the heat wave has arrived as we are leaving. Our first flight is fine and Madrid is very hot. We get to Oslo without delay and then hit a 2-hour delay leaving Norway. When we get to the Airport our car is delivered to us on the back of a lorry by Karsten the garage owner. That has never happened before.

Total kilometers walked: 1,150

Eugene Carroll crosses the St. Bernhard Pass

2010-10-16T17:20:00.012+02:00

Veteran walker/pilgrim Eugene Carroll succesfully crossed the St. Bernhard Pass from Switzerland to Italy in October 2010. This can be a hazardous exercise because of bad weather. Usually the authorities will close the pass if the snow endangers the life of walkers. Here are some pictures first:

A metal bridge ...

Eugene with a St. Bernhard's dog

Eugene Carrol walked this year the French Road to Santiago de Compostela (with his wife Inge), ánd the Silver Road from Seville to Santiago (with Inge), ánd the Via Francigena from Lausanne to Pisa. Not bad for one year!! Here is the blog he wrote while walking from Lausanne to Bergamo:

Late September 2010:

Good flights into Geneva, then train onto Lausanne. I am booked into the excellent Lausanne Backpackers Hostel. I am in a dorm with a couple of American travelers and another person who I never get to meet. The hostel is very well equipped and the stay includes a free travel pass for public transport. I did not get a chance to use the pass but the Americans said they found it very useful.

DAY 1: Lausanne – Montreux (29kms). A very pleasant and easy walk mainly around the shore of Lac Léman - if it feels a bit long then you can use the travel pass on the passenger boats that call in at piers along the shoreline. Expensive houses wrap around the lake but the walking path forms the water’s edge. In Montreux I go to the Paroisse Catholique to find out if they still provide accommodation for Pilgrims. They do not, so I go back to the Tourist Office asking for a cheap room for the night. I get the cheapest room in the only Pension in town and it costs 65SF.

DAY 2: Montreux – Saint Maurice ( 28.5 kms). Start the day by continuing along the lakeside path. After Villeneuve move away from the lake and walk along the banks of the River Rhone. With good weather and great views and scenery the walk is fantastic. In Saint Maurice the priest fixes me up with a very comfortable room in the Abbaye. The evening is the Man Utd game, a couple of beers, and something to eat and then to bed.

DAY 3: St. Maurice – Martigny (20 kms).Continue along the banks of the River Rhone and arrive in the pretty town of Evionnaz. From there on to Martigny – the walking is getting a bit tougher so I am glad for a short day. The Paroisse say they have a place for Pilgrims to sleep but I cannot get in until 6 o’clock. I have things to do so I get on with those and get back before 6. A lady meets me and takes me in her car to a house just outside the city which is used to put up with pilgrims. She shows me around and I settle in. Another night of football.

DAY 4: Martingy – Orsiéres (22kms). I wake up to a rainy day. The climb up to the Pass begins now. The going is tough across very rough ground which is very well way marked. By mid day the rain stops, the sun comes out and I change into T shirt and shorts. More steep climbs before I reach Orsiéres. The priest has very basic but adequate accommodation. I sleep well which is just as well as I have the climb up to the Pass tomorrow.

DAY 5: Orsiéres – St Bernard’s Pass (29kms). Early start and pleased that the bar is open for coffee. The weather is good and I go up the first 7 kms and stop at the bar. The owner is very friendly and refuses payment for my drinks. On up to Bourg Saint- Pierre where I have a break. After this there is a detour across a valley which is tough going. On up I go with the views becoming increasingly amazing. After a long walk up the roads I get to the Col and into the Hospice. After dinner I take the short walk across the border into Italy for a night cap at 2,500 ms.

DAY 6. St Bernard’s Pass – Aosta ( 30kms). Have a long sleep after a tough day. Get a tour of the 1,000 year hospice and then over to see the famous dogs. It is downhill all the way to Aosta with some very steep descents. I get there late and get turned away by the Convent. The Nun sends me to St Martins. It is another 3 kms so I get there about 8pm. The priest is great and fixes me up in a very good pilgrim room. I make it to the restaurant in time for kick off.

DAY 7. Aosta – St Vincent ( 26kms). Rain again. A lot of the walking is on minor roads and a few major ones. A slog all the way to Chantillon. After lunch I head up to St Vincent and the Parrocchia and asked by the housekeeper to come back in a hour as the priest is out. I do bits and pieces. When I return the Priest is very abrupt with me saying he has nowhere for pilgrims to sleep. I go to the Alba Pension and the owner kindly offers me a discount and a good room. It is raining very heavily so I stay in and watch Raiders of the Lost Ark in Italian.

DAY 8. St Vincent – Pont St Martin ( 27kms). The landlady has a very good breakfast laid out for me and pops in and out with weather reports. The rain has stopped. I get going and after an hour or so I come to a hotel that is closed. A man comes out and asks me if I would like coffee and invites me in. He cannot believe I am walking, saying it is impossible. I ask him if he wants to come with me. Despite my offers he refuses any payment. I get going into Pont St Martin where everything is fully booked in the centre – I walk back a couple of kms and find a room where again I am offered PD. Nice place.

DAY 9: Pont St Martin – Ivrea (24kms). Good BK and the receptionist gives me a gift of local biscuits for my walk. I walk on towards Ivrea and again local people stop me to talk and ask me if there anything I need – I am fine. I book into the Pilgrim Ostello for 2 nights – I am having a day in Turino tomorrow and want somewhere to leave my gear while I travel there on the train. Plenty to see and good meal.

DAY 10: Turino – day in a lovely city with plenty to see. I do the Egyptology Museum then the Turin Shroud plus a good look around. Very nice day off. Train breaks down on the way back and I am half an hour late.

DAY 11: Ivrea – Santhiá (35kms). Raining. Get off to a poor start by walking 2 kms in the wrong direction. Backtrack when I realize my mistake. Make good time on a gentle route to Alice Costello. Long walk into Santhiá and find the Pilgrim Ostello. The café owner lets me in and leaves the key, a voucher for a menu del dia and where I can see the Ireland vs Italy game. I get cracking on my stuff. I last to about half way through the second half then go back to the Ostello and bed.

DAY 12: Santhiá – Vercelli (21kms). Busy road for first 5 kms then minor road into Salaco. Again I am given coffee and drink at the café. Going is pleasant all the way into Vercelli and I get to the Seminario at 2.30. No rooms for Pilgrims as they have a convention all weekend. They tell to to go to the Convento at Billamane. It is on the other side of the city and takes me over an hour to walk there. I get a bed and go out to shop. When I get back there are 2 French Pilgrims in the room. First I have met on VF after 12 days. We chat over a beer and compare notes.

DAY 13: Vercelli – Mortara ( 36kms). Up early for a long day. The French Pilgrims are still asleep when I leave. Lovely weather and it is easy walking through rice paddies and orchards. About half way I stop in Robbio which is a pretty town. I press on and get to the Abbaye just outside Mortara. It is closed for refurbishment. I get back into town and get a decent room at the Bel Sit. Nice place and friendly owners. Have a short look around in the evening.

DAY 14: Mortara – Santuario della Bozzola (22kms). After a good BK at the Bel Sit I find the internet and do my postcards. Nice walking all the way to Tremello where I meet Gian Carlo who is the person responsible for the excellent way marking in this area while restoring the local church. Walk on to the Santuario and the bar for the key. There is a monk behind the bar and he wants me to have something to eat. He explains that their Pilgrim Ostello is still being built and he arranges a lift for me to the next Pilgrim place in Gropello. I get dropped off there and a nun shows me to the Pilgrim room which is really a flat for four people. Get sorted out and then out of a few beers and food.

DAY 15: Gropello – Pavia (18kms). I sleep soundly after the large complimentary brandy I was given in the Bar downstairs. I pay a quick visit to the church and then out onto a busy road all the way to Carbonara. Then a very pleasant track until a few kms from Pavia where I am back on a busy road again. The weather is great. I do not stay very long in Pavia as I finish my last walking day. I get a train to Milano and then another to Bergamo. At the station tourist information I get a place at the Youth Hostel and walk the 5 kms there and book in for the night. Repack my rucksack for my flight in the morning. Go to the bar for the Italy Serbia game which is abandoned because of crowd trouble. I talk to a local for a while before going back to the hostel.

DAY 16: Airport bus to Bergamo Airport and flight on time. Realize that I have left a decent piece of Parmasan Cheese in the fridge at the Hostel that I intended to bring home. I wonder if it will be there when I return to continue the VF.

Eugene Carroll to walk the Via Francigena from Lausanne to Pisa

2010-09-23T15:48:00.002+02:00

On 27 September 2010 Eugene Carroll (who is a member of the Camino Handbook Support Team) will start his walk from Lausanne (in Southern Switzerland) to Lucca (near Pisa). Two years ago he already walked from London to Lausanne, and now he continues his walk on this ancient pilgrim road to Rome. His experiences will feature on this site from mid October onward.

UPDATES AUGUST 2010 & NEW ROUTE: LAUSANNE - LUCCA

2010-08-11T10:46:00.046+02:00

Eugene Carroll will walk the ''Vía Francigena'' from Lausanne (Switzerland) across the St. Bernhard Pass to Lucca (close to Pisa in Italy). Details follow in October. This trail can only be walked in Spring/Summer (until 1 October) because of the risks of bad weather.

Tourists near the leaning tower, trying to stop it from falling

Here are the very latest updates on the VIA DE LA PLATA (from Seville to SDC).

Monasterio/Fuente de Cantos – festival 2nd weekend in May leaves just about everything closed – no restaurants/bars/shops open and the only place to get anything food is the gasolinera in both towns during this weekend.

Valdesalor - Only accommodation in town in the football teams changing rooms – Four gym matresses on the floor. We stayed there last year (2009) as well, and the conditions have not improved.

Mérida Albergue – popular with cyclists to the point that they bring their cycles into the dorm and take up most of the spare floor space. There is plenty of space outside……..

Miraltajo – Hotel Lindamar has now been reopened by an English couple with signs in English when approaching along the Camino- but when we got there it was closed. The Albergue turístico close by(500ms) is excellent and provides a free laundry service.

Albergue in Baños does not open until 1600hrs (unusual for the VDLP) so pilgrims should go to the numerous Pensions and Hostals in the town rather than wait. Although the albergue has about 25 beds - only 3 pilgrims stay there!.

Before Salamanca a sign directs to a town (Miranda de Azán), well off the track with all facilities. In fact there is only one shop open in the morning – nothing opens until after midday. Therefore a lot of pilgrims go into this town only to be disappointed

Benavente Albergue - closed for upgrade – there is no notice of this until you arrive at the Police Station in Benavente and ask for the keys. The next Albergue is in 8 kms away in Villabrazaro a bit of a walk at the end of a long day!

Campobecerrros – Only one place to stay – Casa Nuñez - which is totally disorganized. There was a long wait for rooms/food, and the staff were happy to sit out the back and chat while everyone in the bar was made to wait for drinks, especially in the evening

Santiago D C We had a confirmed booking at the Anosa Casa (close to Plaza Galicia) before we left Denmark, and gave credit card details etc, and received a confirmation. When we arrived, no room was available for us, and the owner’s wife said: "The booking is not confirmed unless I confirm the confirmation." We will not be staying there again. (Jack had similar experiences there earlier this year: very rude staff. Very noisy little street. Bars open until 3 AM !!! Noisy shutters will keep you awake. )

BACK HOME! INGE AND EUGENE RETURN TO DENMARK.

2010-07-21T13:21:00.027+02:00

On the Vía de la Plata.

After a one-thousand kilometer hike along various pilgrim roads Inge and Eugene returned home. They walked the "Vía de la Plata" from Seville onward, next some parts of the "Camino Sanobrés" (Ourense, Lalín etc.), the Portuguese Road and the English Road from Ferrol back to Santiago. Their walk commenced 3 days later than expected because of the Iceland Vulcan which prevented air traffic over most of Europe. This was their schedule:

1. El Real – Monesterio
2. Monesterio – Fuento de Cantos
3. Fuento de Cantos – Zafra
4. Zafra – Villafranca de los Barros
5. Villafranca – Torremejía
6. Torremejía – Mérida
7. Mérida – Aljucén
8. Aljucén – Alcuéscar
9. Alcuéscar – Cáceres
10. Cáceres – Casar de Cáceres
11. Casar de Cáceres – Miraltajo
12. Miraltajo – Grimaldo
13. Grimaldo – Carcaboso
14. Carcaboso – Cáparra
15. Cáparra – Baños de Montemayor
16. Baños – Fuenterroble de Salvatierra
17. Fuenterroble – San Pedro de Rozados
18. San Pedro – Salamanca
19. Salamanca – El Cubo de la tierra del vino
20. El Cubo – Villanueva de Campeán
21. Villanueva – Zamora (moved on to the Portuguese variant)
22. Zamora - Murías del Pan
23. Murías del Pan – Fonfría
24. Fonfría – Alcanicas
25. BUS : Alcanicas – Zamora (abandoned the Portuguese variant)
26. Zamora – Fontanillas
27. Fontanillas – La Bañeza
28. BUS : La Bañeza – Puebla de Sanabria
29. Puebla – Requejo
30. Requejo – Lubián
31. Lubián – A Gudina
32. A Gudina – Campobecerros
33. Campobecerros – Laza
34. Laza – Xunqueira de Ambía
35. Ambía - Orense
36. Orense – Castro Dozón
37. Castro Dozón – A Laxe
38. A Laxe – Capilla de Santiaguino
39. Capilla de Santiaguino – Santiago de Compostela
40. TRAIN : SDC – A Coruña
41. BUS: A Coruña – Ferrol (Camino Inglés)
42. Ferrol – Neda
43. Neda – Miño
44. Miño – Bruma
45. Bruma – Sigueiro BUS: to SDC

Their over all impressions after a two-month walk are:

"* It has been a magnificent experience, even though we had some bad days: bad weather, no refuge in sight, no arrows, and being overcharged in some catering establishments. On the other hand: we met a lot of lovely people indeed, and we stayed in some great albergues, hostales, we had some great meals etc. etc.

* The "Camino Inglés" is not easy to walk as there are only three (good) albergues. On the Portuguese Road one easily gets lost and ends up on a deserted country lane in blazing heat. One tends to become irritated after a few days.

* The "Vía de la Plata" is not cheap to walk. Especially the beginning of it in Andalucía costs money, although the prices seem te drop after Zamora. Sometimes the albergues are too far apart (or too close !!!) so one has to find alternative transportation or stay in a hostal."

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A wonderful experience it was, no doubt about that. Anyone should and could do it. But, like we have stated already earlier on this site: making a pilgrimage is not FREE anymore (moneywise), if it ever was "free". To the contrary: one needs money, and plenty of it, if one wants to walk long distance. At the moment the various pilgrim roads are full of pedestrians, so the catering services are booked out or overcrowded. Prices have gone up because Spain is suffering from a terrible crisis. You will help solve this problem, pilgrim. If you can ...

More pictures on an extra page. Top left.

Arrival in Santiago.

2010-06-23T14:19:00.005+02:00

Inge and Eugene safely arrived in Santiago on 22 June. They are now on their way from La Coruña and to El Ferrol, to walk back to Santiago along the English Road. The temperatures are quite high in Galicia! In La Coruña they stayed in a good hotel named Hostal Alborán, situated in Calle Riego de Agua no. 14. (Take the bus from the airport along the highway to the old city centre near the harbor. Enter the pensinsula and ask where the street is.) (Bus 1A will also take you there.) Ph 381 22 65 79

Another good option in La Coruña is Pensión Palas, next to the bus terminal (turn right after leaving the main entrance).

Inge and Eugene reach Galicia!

2010-06-15T16:44:00.004+02:00

"We rushed to A Gudiña today to be in time for the Holland vs Danmark game - so congratulations to Holland! They deserved the win without doubt. Our camino has settled down and we are enjoying good weather as we crossed the 'Alto' into Galicia earlier today - it is nice to be back. Again we have a group around us of Spanish, Swiss, German, French, English, Australian and a chap from Equador - so a mixed bag of pilgrims and things are not too crowded. Still, very little internet - only the bibliotech in some towns, and apart from a few notable exceptions no new development or improvements. We hope to walk to Finisterra and Muxía - even if it means staying in hostales and pensiones. So, the weather is fine, the food and wine is great, the company interesting and mixed - and with the added bonus of the World Cup to entertain us - things could not be much better. All being well, we will see you soon."

Saludos, Eugene and Inge

Almost there! Only one week to go ...

Inge and Eugene enter Salamanca.

2010-06-01T12:38:00.004+02:00

Eugene writes:

"Finding computers isn't easy, except in the big places like Salamanca. Anyway, from the good albergue near the Embalse de Alcántara we went to Grimaldo where we had a good menu for € 10= in the restaurant. Later on we had another menu for € 9= in the bar next to the albergue, and that was not so good. Our next stop was Carcaboso, which offers a basic, but good albergue (Ruta de la Plata) with good food and a breakfast in the bar. After that we walked to Cáparra, which offers very few services (small albergue). But, pilgrims will be collected by the owner of Hostal Asturias to spend the night there at 10 kms from the camino. They offer good food at reasonable prices. Just ring: 927 47 70 57.

Salamanca

In Baños de Montemayor there is a good albergue. However, they do not open their doors before 16:15 hours so you might have to wait a while, or, go to the local hostal. Next stop: Fuenterroble de Salvatierra, which possesses a rather peculiar albergue run by father Blas Rodríguez. All pilgrims sleep in one bedroom, except the Americans, who are offered another, private bedroom adorned with USA flags!!! The albergue is OK though. Somehow, there must be an "American connection" in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra.

In San Pedro de Rozados we spent the night in the Albergue El Militio, which is good with good food. Finally we entered Salamanca where we met the "Man of the Camino". He runs a boot repair shop named "El Rápido" and is an expert in (quick) boot repairs!!! For a change we had a Chinese dinner in stead of the usual Spanish stuff. It was good. The restaurant is situated in Calle Mayor and named Shangai."

So far Eugene and Inge. More in a week's time!!!

Inge and Eugene continue their pilgrimage through Extremadura.

2010-05-25T11:17:00.006+02:00

From Villafranca de los Barros the two walked 27 kms to Torremejía through a beautiful landscape full of Spring colours. They stayed the night at the new Albergue de Turismo which is great. Their next stop after 16 kilometers was Mérida, an interesting Roman city full of well-kept monuments. Here they stayed at the (reasonable) albergue, but were kept awake by groups of cyclists. So, do expect to meet quite a few pilgrims in a town like Mérida! Another 16 kilometers brought them to Aljucén, with another overnight stay in an albergue (this time with no toilet paper). There is also a cheap hostal which charges € 20=.

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NOTE: It seems that the days when albergues were FREE are definitely over. Many albergues now charge 10 Euros, or even more, for an overnight stay. Sometimes a breakfast and the use of washing facilities is included in this price. In Galicia (and on some other regions like Asturias and Castilla) the average charge is 5 Euros for a bunk, mattrass cover and hot shower. Donativo has become very scarce indeed!!!

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We continue with the story as told by Inge and Eugene. Next they walked to Alcuéscar (19 kms) to stay in the good albergue of the Hermanos Esclavos. After a 26-kms walk they reached Valdesalor, which possesses a notoriously bad albergue: sleep on the floor of a dressing room next to a football field. Inge and Eugene had stayed overnight here last year and decided to take a bus to Cáceres. Many other pilgrims followed them. The problem with Valdesalor is that there are no hotels. Anyway, a bus trip of 12 kms brought them to the City of Cáceres which has a crowded albergue. From there on they walked to Casar de Cáceres, to sleep (again) in a crowded albergue.

Finally they reached the very good Albergue of Embalse de Alcántara. This good albergue charges €15= for a bunk bed, hot shower, washing/drying facilities and a breakfast. (See pictures)
From there on they will walk to Santiago, Finisterra and Muxía via Portugal and the southern Galician road. Still more than 800 kms to go!

More UPDATES soon.

Inge and Eugene on their way through Andalucía and Extremadura

2010-05-17T17:50:00.006+02:00

Monday 17 May: They stay at a good hostal named Casa Perín (casaperin.es) in Villafranca de los Barros

Picture: Casa Perín

Sunday 16 May: Zafra (Albergue).
Over the weekend Inge and Eugene experienced problems getting food! All the shops were closed because of some Agricultural Festival. They lived on food obtained from gas stations. Finally they dined in a somewhat overpriced restaurant in Zafra.
Saturday 15 May: Fuente de Canotos (Albergue)
Friday 14 May: overnight stay in Monesterio, the first main stop in the Province of Extremadura.
Thursday 13 May: Start in Seville, after huge problems (ash clouds, delays, detours) flying in from Denmark/Britain.

MORE UPDATES ON OTHER ROUTES ON JACKDEGROOT.COM

Support Team Members Inge and Eugene hit the road!

2010-05-15T12:28:00.003+02:00

Inge and Eugene Carroll, who live in Denmark, have commenced a new pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, this time from Seville. Both are experienced pilgrims, veterans of the road. Jack met them in January 2010 while on his way from Pamplona to Santiago. In fact, the first encounter happened at the good Albergue del Pilar in Rabanal del Camino.

Both experienced problems while on their way to Seville in early May. Again the ash cloud disrupted flight traffic and both Inge and Eugene were diverted to unlikely destinations such as Madrid and Frankfurt. Also long delays were the result, and overnight stays at airport hotels (paid for by the airline). The couple traveled seperately because Inge had won a free ticket in a picture contest in Denmark. Eugene flew another route, and in Seville the couple was to meet up again. Here is the winning picture which features Inge between Rabanal and Molinaseca:

At the moment they must have left Seville. They hope to reach Santiago on 22 June, and continue then to Finisterra and Muxía. More news soon.

2010-05-03T12:46:00.017+02:00

Welcome to this new website. At this moment it is under construction, but I hope to have it ready in May 2010.

The Handbook may be purchased directly from the publisher

or from Amazon Books.

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"Excellence in Publishing"

New Orleans USA

http://www.unprsouth.com/

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Tomás and Jack met up again in January 2010.

Here they are pictured at Manjarín.